AUGUST 07 - 20 MORE BEAUTY QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Dearest readers: I know you want your beauty questions answered more often than the current weekly update. Please be patient with me: I am planning to redesign the site soon, which will allow for me to answer questions more quickly and regularly. For now, I have devoted the August feature to addressing another twenty of your questions, all answered lovingly and hopefully to your skin and hair’s satisfaction. Kat x

1. I do my own manicures but can never seem to get the right hand to look good. Is there a special technique?

bloom-polish.jpgYep, and it’s called practice. Having said that, I still can’t manage it. But I’ve given up trying to do my own (I get impatient. My hands shake. I try to multi-task and my hard work ends up smudged…). If you’re DIY-ing once a week, you’ll get there eventually. My mum’s a pro at nailing each hand. But then, she’s got twenty-one years on me. And she can do anything: write a thesis, crochet a poncho … Anyway, I did ask her for any tips for you and she said, apart from the practice component, to make sure you keep your hand flat on a firm surface, and to also make sure not to overload the brush with polish - it’s better to add a little at a time and layer up to the look you want. A short brush may also be easier to wield - for instance, the one featured in Bloom Nail Colour ($12 from Myer). Failing that, enlist a friend’s help.

2. I want my skin to be bright and glossy, without looking oily. What products do you recommend?

First up, we need to get your oil situation under control. Make sure you’re using skincare suitable for your complexion type, and add a scrub and purifying mask into your weekly routine. Next, it’s all about an illuminiser. Every woman needs this, whether she 16 or sixty. But the key is placement. I mix a dollop into my moisturiser or foundation, for all-over glow. But my t-zone has finally sorted itself out - if not, I’d risk looking like a walking light bulb. In your case, you’re best off concentrating highlighter on your cheeks. In natural light, blend a little on your apples, before you add a pop of rosy blush. Then dab some more along the upper cheekbones and browbone to add pretty highlights to your features. Check your handiwork from various angles using a couple of hand-held mirrors - you want to create a lit-from-within look, as opposed to an obvious streak of shimmer. This technique takes a while to get right, but when you do work it out, you’ve got yourself a gorgeous glowy new look. Keep oily patches under control throughout the day by using blotting papers as needed.

3. Can you please recommend any cleaners for my makeup brushes?

pout-brushes.jpgSure - even though this is so hypocritical of me, being someone who cannot remember the last time she washed her own brushes. But moving on … If your brushes have synthetic bristles, you should be washing them pretty much after use. Apply some eye makeup remover, wipe clean with a tissue, then wash with a mild cleanser and water. For natural-bristle brushes, pros say that once-a-month maintenance is fine. Suds up some baby shampoo in warm water, swirl brushes around in the mixture and rinse with water. Next dilute some rubbing alcohol (found in supermarkets) into water, dip brushes in, then blot-dry and air-dry, leaving them flat on your bathroom bench.

4. Is it bad to wash your hair every day?

In short, no. But the disclaimer: as long as you’re using the right haircare for your hair type. Having said that, I know many hairstylists who disagree with this view, insisting you must train yourself to have longer in-between-wash time. I used to wash every day. But, having hair almost scraping my lower back at the time, it became a bit of a drag, and I’ve somehow managed to make myself an every-second-day shampoo girl. Second-day hair, by the way, is much sexier to style. Anyway, my point is: it also has to match your lifestyle. If you have short hair or if you have the time, washing your hair every day is fine. Again, as long as you’re using good-quality haircare that is right for your type. One more tip: when you’re washing hair regularly, just do one application of shampoo, concentrated at the very roots. Otherwise you can over-strip the scalp of oils, which will only trigger more oil production, making matters even trickier to control. Similarly, limit conditioner to the mid-lengths and ends, so as not to over-load the scalp.

5. When is a good age to start using an eye cream? It is worth it to start in your teens?

nivea-eye.jpgMost derms would say mid-twenties. But if you have any puffiness or tiredness, you could start out with a cooling eye gel - such as Nivea Visage Aqua Sensation Anti Shadow Eye Cream, $13.80, from pharmacies - and use as needed. While lines aren’t an issue for you now, you’re at an age where UVA rays can start to wreak wrinkle-inducing damage deep-down. So, when you apply sunscreen, make sure to take it under the eyes. Not too close, of course. And the best one to use is a gentle formulation. Luckily, this would be one featuring zinc oxide, which also happens to be an extremely effective UVA blocker. You can find it in many face-friendly formulations at the pharmacy, or even in baby sunscreens, which are about the most gentle out there. New zinc oxide technology means it’s more transparent than ever, but if you find your one a little white-ish, mix it with some foundation: ta-da, instant tinted moisturiser. Another good trick: big dark sunglasses. The ideal form of sunscreen for the eye area.

6. What brand of eye shadow do you recommend?

bourjois-green-shadow.jpgWell, my personal favourite is by Stila (from $34, from Mecca Cosmetica). And, namely, the shimmery champagne shade, Kitten - it’s pretty much the only thing you’ll ever see on my lids. But there are many other gorgeous shades in the line-up you should check out. I’m also impressed with Bourjois shadows (available at Priceline) - great, fun colours and good pigment intensity, especially if you apply with a dampened brush or sponge-tip applicator.

7. Should a product containing vitamin C be used in the morning or at night?

A vitamin C serum (which offers the most effective delivery) is best applied in the morning, after cleansing your skin and right before smoothing on your creams. Vitamin C will help combat the free radicals your skin deals with on a day-to-day basis, giving extra back-up to sunscreen and any anti-ageing moisturiser you may be using. You can still choose to use vitamin C at night. But because C serums tend to be quite costly, you may want to save them just for mornings. PM skincare is more about repair. This is when a restorative night cream is timely. It’s also an opportunity to get serious about active anti-ageing ingredients, such a vitamin A, whether in over-the-counter retinol form, a derm-prescribed retinoic acid form.

8. I have eczema, so my skin is quite dry and sensitive. The moisturiser I’m using has been working well, except I’ve started noticing milia on my cheeks. What should I do?

cetaphil.jpgYou’re using a moisturiser that is way too rich for your skin. Sometimes exfoliating can help avoid such blockages. But with your complexion, you need to be extremely gentle and minimal in your skincare approach. I’m going to refer you right to a dermatologist - your skin needs a specialised and tailored regimen. You’ll very likely find that a derm will recommend cheap-and-cheerful pharmacy buys (brands like Cetaphil), but may also prescribe some anti-inflammatory topical steroids, such as hydrocortisone, to help get the eczema under control.

9. Can you safely remove a pimple?

I may get told off by some of my beauty therapist friends … but there is a way to DIY … Just don’t say I recommended it. I’m just sharing information, okay? And also, take note: this only applies to whiteheads. Red angry spots will only become redder and angrier when poked and prodded; this can lead to spreading of infection, as well as possibly marking the skin. Okay, scary talk over. Here’s the deal when it comes to extracting a whitehead: Sterilise a pin or needle. Prick the very tip of the whitehead. Wrap each pointer finger in tissue, and gently apply pressure to each side of the spot. Post-extraction, cleanse the area and dab on some spot cream to help speed up the healing process. Use a concealer brush to help you cover up any redness, and try to forget about it.

10. What do I do about split ends?

scissors.jpgCut them off. Sorry, I wish I had some magical solution for you. Yes, there are some split-end products out there… But they’re basically silicone-based serums that will only temporarily smooth hair’s outer layer down. You can never mend hair once it’s broken. Get a trim, then commit to regular moisturising treatments (apply at least once a week), which will go far to preventing breakages and splits in the future.

11. What’s a cheap lip plumper that actually works?

I have to be honest: I hate lip plumpers. They hurt. And I never can see a difference. Maybe in some research lab, under some microscope, some scientist has been able to prove some volumising effect. But, in my real-life mirror, my view is that the effect is so subtle that it’s not worth the pain you mostly go through, Or money. If you’re cool with cosmetic surgery, you could consider a hyaluronic acid injection, such as Restylane or Juvéderm. They’re costly, of course (you could be looking at $500 a session, with follow-ups needed about every eight months). A nice, quick way to give lips a more luscious look is to simply dab some shimmery gloss in the centre - a no-pain way to visually plump up a pout.

12. How do you do French nails?

manicare.jpgIt’s kind of tricky DIY-ing, but French manicure kits make it manageable. You basically use little stencil tapes to help you paint an even tip with an opaque white polish, then you follow up by brushing over the whole nail with a clear tint - usually a pale pink, but also often a nude tone. Once you get the hang of it, you can try out special effects. For instance, starting out with a cream base, and adding a metallic tip. You often see variations on French manis in magazine fashion shoots - so keep a look-out for inspiration.

Pictured: Manicare French Manicure Kit, $19.99, from pharmacies and variety stores.

13. I have dark brown eyes and light brown hair - how can I make my eyes stand out more?

You’re in luck - dark brown is just about the most versatile iris colour to have when it comes to makeup. You can either play up the accents in your eyes; for example, if you have gold flecks, add gilded dusts to bring out their sparkle. Or, you can go for extreme contrast using bright colours. Jewel tones look especially stunning against chocolate eyes - think emerald, amethyst and sapphire. And you only need a line of colour to set off your eyes to best effect. Beware of muddy, murky tones of eye makeup. You want to always aim to bring life and lift to your dark features. Smoky eyes can be tricky, but you can still achieve a sexy effect using shimmering metallic greys, which will add both smoulder and sparkle to your face.

14. Can I wear tinted moisturiser to bed?

dove-night.jpgShort answer: no. It’s the same as wearing makeup to bed. And we all know that’s a beauty crime up there with wearing sunflower-yellow eyeshadow and picking at pimples. If you’re on a budget, this unfortunately means buying a second cream just for night. It’s worth it though. Night-time is when the skin can focus on repair and regeneration, and night creams are formulated to enhance this process. Check out the well-priced options from Nivea, Olay, Garnier and Dove.

Pictured: Dove Night Cream, $8.99, from pharmacies

15. I have very pale skin and black hair. I want to fake tan - how dark should I go?

It really depends on just how dark your hair is. If we’re talking black, then the Snow White look is your thing, and I’m more inclined to recommend you add colour to your face via a blush of rose. Think Dita Von Teese for inspiration. If, however, your hair is a rich brunette shade, you can go quite bronze, because it will add even more warmth to your features. Just think of the way that Cameron Diaz and Nicole Richie used bronzer to help their naturally fair skin carry off their recent brunette looks. Key is to build a tan up to a level you’re comfortable with. Take a gradual tanner approach and, each night, mix a little self-tanner into your night cream until you wake up to the level of bronze you’re happy with. Then boost every second or third night to maintain it.

16. How do I look pretty without over doing the makeup?

Introducing my five easy steps to a I-can’t-help-being-born-this-pretty look …

australis.jpg1: Smooth on a tinted moisturiser. 2: Use concealer to cover any dark circles and redness. 3: Blend a cream blush in a rosy shade into the apples of your cheeks. 4: Dab a shimmer cream in a pearly tone onto your lids and lips. 5: Curl lashes and apply one coat of black mascara.

Pictured: Australis Shimma Stick in Pink Panther, $9.95, from pharmacies

17. I have wavy hair after I’ve slept but dead-straight hair after a shower. Is there any way I can achieve curly hair without the use of tongs or rollers?

Unfortunately, no. I’m in a similar situation to you. I have even been known to use shampoo and conditioner for curly hair, hoping upon hope it would miraculously create curls (we beauty editors: constant hope in a jar). But you and I obviously have hair with some tendency for texture, otherwise we’d wake up with straight hair. Best thing in this situation is to work with the hair’s natural rhythm. Try washing it at night-time. Dry to about 70%, twist up in a bun or a couple of plaits, go to sleep, then wake up to gorgeous waves and no need to spend hours tied to your tongs.

18. Is there any way I can use makeup to make my nose look smaller?

ultraceuticals.jpgHi and welcome to my world of nose dysmorphia! Look, it’s probably not as bad or as big as you think. But I sympathise… What you can try is to subtly sweep powder in a tan or bronze shade down the sides of your nose for a contouring effect – a technique many makeup artists often use on celebrities and models. Just make sure to practise first and to always do this in natural light - so it’s not obvious to anyone what you’re trying to do. You could also try blending a line of illuminiser down the centre of your nose – this can also help add definition and bring attention to the middle of your nose, making it appear finer and slimmer.

Pictured: Ultraceuticals Ultra Active Mineral Colour, $55, from Adore Beauty

19. I have olive skin – what colour blush do you suggest?

You could go two ways here. You could choose a burnished shade, like a rich orange-red, which gives you that deeply sun-kissed – almost sunburnt – look. Or, contrary to what many believe, you could go for a really pretty pink. It’s much more subtle – basically, the deeper your skin, the deeper you need to go with colours for the most effect – but it can look so gorgeous and feminine, especially when worked back to a dusting of highlighter along the upper cheekbones, and shimmer around the eyes.

20. I have really sensitive skin that can also become oily. Do you know of any products which I can wash my face with as I have been having reactions to everything I try!

Ooh tricky combo. Let’s start with the sensitivity issue. (Sensitive skin suffers inflammation, which is a key contributor to premature ageing. Oily skin, on the other hand, ages very gracefully. So while oiliness might be annoying right now, it’s not as crucial to get a handle on as sensitivity.) In terms of a cleanser, I’m goinmg to be a cliché and once again recommend Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser (from $6.50 from pharmacies), which is both comforting and effective and loved by every single person I have ever recommended it to. It may not feel as thoroughly cleansing as a cleanser for oily skin does – but that’s a good thing, as it means it’s keeping your skin’s protective barrier in tact, which is what helps protect skin from environmental aggressors.

aveda.jpgSo how to deal with the oiliness, I hear you ask once again. If it’s a serious issue, and one that’s causing blockages and breakouts, I’d recommend following your cleanser with a salicylic acid-infused treatment. This is a gentle way to keep skin exfoliated and pores unclogged. Just limit its use to oil- and spot-prone areas. As for moisturiser, go for one that’s friendly to sensitive skin, which means free of fragrance and chemicals. Check out the organic section in your local health food store. It won’t keep shine at bay throughout the day, but this is when those nifty little blotting papers come into the picture. Use as often as needed. They keep your face clean and fresh-looking, without over-stripping those lovely oils that are going to keep you looking younger in the future.

Pictured: Aveda Outer Peace Blemish Relief Pads, $59.95, call 1300 300 054 for stockist details

No Comments »

No comments yet.

RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URL

Leave a comment

Home | Beauty Spot | Beauty School | Beauty Tips | Beauty Q&A | Beauty Diary | Beauty Expert | Beauty Feature | Beauty Queen | Archives