November 07 - Brad Ngata, Hair Stylist

Super-snipper and hair stylist, Brad Ngata, takes time out from his hectic schedule (fashion shoots, advertising campaigns, runway shows, managing one of Sydney’s hottest salons …) to talk hair trends, tools and tricks.

What’s your signature look?

Seamless layers. They’re basically layers that are cut underneath. I pull the hair up and chip and scallop into the ends to piece it all out and take the weight out. But when you let the hair fall, the layers disappear. It’s a great way to layer hair without creating that wispy layered look. It’s also a very versatile style. You can iron it straight, flip it out, or go for something more textured by scrunching it with a sea salt spray. It primarily suits girls with thick hair, but I can adapt it to most hairs. I developed the technique because a request I commonly get is to change the look of hair without changing hair length.


Any other common requests?

Many clients bring in celebrity photos. I’ll always take it into consideration but I have to work it back to what is happening on your head - the quality and density of your hair. Often women with very thick wavy hair will show me something that’s sleek and straight. So in the consultation, I ask: How prepared are you to maintain this? How much time are you willing to spend on it? At the end of the day, they have to reproduce the look at home.

I also explain to clients that hair needs to suit face shape. For instance, if you have a round face, don’t do anything jaw length. Instead go sleek to the collarbone to narrow the face down. If, on the other hand, you have a long face, you should go for something with lots of movement so you don’t drag your features down.

What are the most popular celebrity cut requests?

victoria-beckham.jpgVictoria Beckham has been huge. While not everyone wants or can wear her short, dramatic version of the bob, she’s shown women that short hair can be stylish. It has given women inspiration and the confidence to go short. We’re doing all types of variations on the bob. Once you combine that with great colour and condition, it looks a million bucks. I think it will stay around for a while because it’s such a backlash to the whole textured boho thing.

Any other hot new hair style trends on the horizon?

agyness-deyn.jpgEven shorter haircuts. Women will be more adventurous due to the bob comeback, because each time they get a trim, they’ll be tempted to take a little more off. I think hair will go much shorter than the classic bob, and razor- or feather-cut for a softer effect. Think the model Agyness Deyn.

Who are your other hair icons?

kate-moss.jpgSienna Miller is always fashion-forward. I especially loved the Edie Segdwick phase. And I love how she always changes her look, with clips, or with bands to slick it back. I also love Kate Moss’s looks - especially her new one. The soft layers with the heavy fringe - it’s just awesome. Sienna and Kate both do effortlessly sexy hair. They wear their hair - not the other way around.

Any other celebrities doing hair well?

jessica-alba.jpgJessica Alba. She’s a great example of seamless layers. And her colour is perfectly complementary to her skin tone.

So let’s talk colour - what’s the hottest trend?

ashley-olsen.jpgBalayage. We use this free-hand technique to fade the ends. Sometimes we also tint the roots darker. The overall effect is a great dimension. It’s really fun but quite edgy. The Olsens do the look well.

Any other celebrity hair tricks?

Clip-in hair extensions - which are actually really easy for anyone to do. You simply back-comb hair a little, then clip the extension in. Because you can buy them in all different shades and colours, you can get your perfect match, so it completely disappears into hair. The result is denser hair, in a way that still looks natural.

Your other favourite tricks of the trade?

t3.jpgRight now I’m obsessed with the T3 Evolution Dryer ($299 from T3 Hair). It’s made from crushed tourmaline, which emits infrared and negative ions. Without getting too technical, the effect is an incredible, glamorous shine. I love how it’s a low airflow but a high heat, so you can get more control over what you’re doing. I also love that it’s light as a feather.

What else is in your kit?

kms-mousse-small.jpgKMS haircare. I use the Add Volume Styling Foam ($25.95, call 1800 506 060 for salon stockists) on every head of hair before I start work. Whether I’m blow-drying or tonging or setting hair, it gives great grip and ensures the style doesn’t drop. I also have countless brushes in all shapes and sizes, but my favourite is the natural-bristle Mason Pearson brush (available at Peter’s of Kensington). It works through hair beautifully and gives a gorgeous glossy look. Everyone should have one.

What other products does every woman need?

Good quality shampoo and conditioner. Just as with skin, you need to make sure your hair stays in optimum condition in between salon visits, so always use prescribed haircare. Nine out of ten women use the wrong haircare. It’s really important to get professional diagnosis and advice, so you know whether you need, for example, more moisture, protein or silicone. You should also always use a thermal protectant if you heat-style your hair.

What’s the biggest hair mistake you see?

Fighting natural curls. You need to instead learn how to look after curls well. Most of the time, curly hair needs moisture and silicone put back in to get a gorgeous ribbon-like curl. You also need to see a stylist who understands curly hair. It should be cut dry, and in a random way - for example, long tendrils at the front, shorter bits at the back, to give it a cool style. Otherwise you can end up with just a round ball of curls.

For more info, check out Brad Ngata Hair Direction.

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