Long-time resident makeup artist for Channel Nine, Melissa Dempster also now boasts her own makeup range, Melli Cosmetics. Here she talks about getting into the industry, looking great on camera, as well as her all-time top makeup tips.

Why and how did you become a makeup artist?

When I first watched The Wizard of Oz as a little girl, I knew that I wanted to work in television and film. After finishing school, I did a makeup course and then spent five years working on low budget films and student films. I eventually worked with someone who knew someone at The Midday Show on Channel Nine – it’s usually all about contacts – and I scored a gig there. I think I spent the first six months washing sponges and making coffee.

Any advice for aspiring makeup artists out there?

When you’re starting out, it can be really expensive to build up your kit. So just start off with three colours of each product: foundation, eye shadow, blush, lipstick. And learn to mix, which is a really good skill to have. Also check which brands offer makeup artist discounts. And don’t forget to experiment with the lower priced ranges, some are impressively highly pigmented. I used a lot of Bourjois when I was starting out, they do great eye and cheek colours.

What has been your career highlight?

Driving Hugh Jackman across town in my old beat up car. We were working on a documentary about the Australian film industry.

What’s your main gig now?

I used to work at Channel Nine six days a week. I now do two, as I have to devote time to Melli – as well as to my kids and dogs!

Tell us about Melli …

One of the reasons I started it is because it can be so expensive for makeup artists to buy products. I try to keep my prices reasonable. For instance, the ISIS palette has 15 colours and is only $99. I also started Melli because I couldn’t find a range that had all of the colours I like to use.

What’s your signature look?

I love lots of bronzes and metallics. Warm colours. They’re natural but not boring – I look for three-dimensional texture.

What’s your hero product?

The Velvet Silk Perfection Mousse ($68). I have really open pores, as do many of the people I have made up. And I have found that even retexturising primers don’t do that much. I formulated this to smooth over skin with large open pores, and also skin that’s a bit dry and rough. It really does make your skin feel like velvet.

Next product on the to-do list?

An eye-brightening concealer balm that also has skincare properties.

Apart from Melli products, what’s always in your kit?

Beauty blenders (from $29.95 from Beauty Blender). I use them damp. You can almost use any foundation with them and look great. I also always have a really good eyelash curler, loads of individual lashes, and Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream ($35 from department stores).

What are your top five makeup tips?

1. Start off soft and build from there. It’s always easier to add than take away, especially when doing a smoky eye.
2. Lift a matt eye shadow but mixing in a little metallic or shimmer.
3. After brushing cheeks with blush, sweep the brush over your eye makeup. It will add a nice touch of warmth, especially if you wear a peachy-hued cheek colour.
4. To line under the lower lashes, use a liner brush but instead of holding it horizontally, which creates a hard lines, hold it vertically and go back and forth. You’ll get soft definition.
5. To make lips instantly look fuller, use a white pencil to softly define the cupid’s bow. Light colours reflect and bring forward, making an area look bigger.

What’s the biggest makeup crime you see?

Way too much foundation. If you only have one area of spots or discolouration, you don’t need a whole face of base, just strategic concealer.

And the biggest makeup myth?

That you’re a ‘summer’ or ‘spring’ or ‘autumn’ or ‘winter’ girl. Everyone will always suit a certain colour palette more than another. But that whole seasonal thing, - I hate it. You can wear any colour if it’s applied properly.

What are the keys to looking good on camera or in a photo?

I like a glowing skin but there’s a difference between glowy and greasy, so even though I’m not a big powder person, I will still powder down the t-zone. You also need foundation, but blended well, so you can see flawless coverage but real skin showing through at the same time. Eyes should be defined well but soft in effect, and you can use a little more blush than usual, just not so much that you look like a clown in real life.

What’s it like working in high-definition?

High-definition is a form of digital that is amazing quality. The flipside is that now everything shows up – lines, spots, etc. When I started in television, we used to use so much more makeup, and do a much stronger eye, with heavily defined sockets. It’s a lot different now. Blending is really important - I love the Beauty Blender for the way it can be used to stipple on makeup. You can’t over-powder, because the camera will pick it up. And I usually apply mascara with a small angled brush, so it’s more like a tint, because HDTV picks up even the smallest mascara clumps.

Who are you beauty icons and inspirations?

Lindsay Price is the modern celebrity who I think gets it right. For inspiration, I also love Lauren Hutton, Betty Grable and Olivia Newton John.

What trends are you seeing for Spring/Summer 2008?

Brows are a lot stronger. There are 80s-brights around, but they’re more muted. And bronze eyes are still kicking around like last summer, but this year they’re worn with a soft coral lip, not a bright one.

What’s your biggest beauty splurge?

A massage. It keeps me feeling good and, I think, looking good, because stress always shows in the face.

And your best beauty bargain?

Nivea Visage Oxygen Power Reviving Night Cream ($15.99 from pharmacies). It’s really nice, especially for the price.

And your other favourite …

Skincare? The Dermalogica Age Smart range (from $65.60, see Dermalogica for details).
Bodycare? Kit Fruity Fancy Free Body Lotion ($28 from Kit). It has notes of fresh pear, apple and vanilla and makes you smell like you’re straight out of the shower.
Fragrance? Juicy Couture – I bought in on eBay.
Haircare? L’Oréal Professionnel Shine Expert Shine Blonde (from $22.95, from selected salons). It stops highlighted hair from going brassy.